Types of roses suitable for potting.

It wasn’t too long ago that no serious rosarian would even consider having a potted rose on their property except for, maybe, last minute emergencies where they had run out of space but couldn’t resist buying just one more plant.

Times have changed and potted roses have a place in the lives of condo and apartment dwellers, city slickers who live in areas where there isn’t a tree in sight, and anyone who has a spot on their lawn or garden in need of the beauty that only a rose can deliver.

Not all rose types are good candidates for growing in pots. The following varieties have been found to do best. Feel free to try any variety that you want, even climbers, and see how they make out.

All that Jazz

Ballerina

Blush Noisette

Bonica

Cecile Brunner

Clotilde Soupert

Green Rose

Gruss an Aachen

Hannah Gordon

Hermosa

Katharina Zeimet

Mrs. Oakley Fisher

Peace

Perfume Delight

Precious Platinum

Sea Foam

Sexy Rexy

Souvenir de la Malmaison

Stanwell Perpetual

The Fairy

Valentine

Whiskey Mac

Planting potted roses is a relatively easy task as long as you do your planting in the spring after any chance of a frost is long past. If you live in a warm climate zone, then hold off planting until autumn when the ravages of July and August are far behind.

When you’re ready to plant, choose an appropriate sized container with drainage holes. Make sure that the container has enough room for your plant to grow without having to transplant frequently.

Fill the container with garden soil that has some compost or organic fertilizer mixed in.

Dig a hole that’s a bit bigger than the root ball, knock the rose loose from its shipping container, and plant it.

Dig a shallow trench or moat around the base of the plant to hold water, and water well.

Potted roses are susceptible to the same diseases as garden roses are, and they require feeding, pruning and all of the other rose care basics. Potted roses aren’t less work or responsibility; they are simply more space-saving than a regular rose garden. Don’t treat your roses as if they were ordinary potted plants or you will lose them.

People are constantly asking if they can grow potted plants indoors. The answer is: “Maybe, but it’s a risky proposition.” That’s because roses need high humidity and a lot of direct sunlight. High humidity conditions do not usually exist inside of most air-conditioned homes. However, if you live in a hot, steamy area, and you don’t have air conditioning, then you can probably get away with it as long as you pick a sunny spot.

Of all the rose varieties that are likely to survive indoors, miniature roses are your best bet. Miniature roses are actual roses that have been bred to grow into small and compact plants with equally small flowers. They do very well in pots and are quite beautiful.

If you’re willing, go ahead and experiment. You’ve really got nothing to lose and you just might discover a whole new aspect of rose gardening!

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The Different Rose Types Classifications

Although there is no one set of “official” classification system of roses, there are many different popular rose classification schemes that are employed throughout the world. The most popular of the systems in use has been proposed by The American Rose Society in cooperation with the World Federation of Roses. Although this classification system is not the only one in use, a large majority of internationally established societies have adopted this scheme for classifying roses.

According to the American Rose Society, there are three main groupings of roses: the Species; Old Garden Roses; and Modern Roses. Species Roses, the origin of every other rose class, are commonly referred to as “wild roses.” These “wild roses” are easy to identify, as they normally have five petals, are once-blooming, and are generally thorny shrubs or climbers. Several popular Species Roses include: Cherokee Roses, Dog Roses, Gallic Roses, French Roses, and Redleaf Roses. Species Roses can be found throughout the Northern Hemisphere, as they flourish in temperate climates.

Unlike Species Roses, which existed millions of years before man walked the earth, Old Garden Roses are identified as a major class of roses recognized before 1867.

Most Old Garden Roses bloom once per season, usually at the arrival of summer. Old Garden Roses occur in a variety of shrub and vine sizes. Although colors vary, Old Garden Roses are typically white or pastel in color. These rose types are generally preferred for lawns and home gardening because they are easy to care for. Several groupings of roses are classified as Old Garden Roses including: China, Tea, Moss, Damask, Bourbon, Hybrid Perpetual and Noisette roses. Many “antique roses” have a strong sweet scent, which makes them very desirable.

Old Garden Roses are the predecessors of Modern Roses. Any rose which has been identified post 1867 is considered a Modern Rose. This group of roses are very popular. The Modern Rose is the result of cross breeding the hybrid tea with the polyanthus. The colors of a Modern Rose are lovely, rich and vibrant. Most of the roses found in this class flower repeatedly when cared for properly. Perhaps that is why horticulturists find this class so attractive. The most popular roses found in the class of Modern Roses are the hybrid tea, floribunda, and grandiflora. Although Modern Roses are adored by florists and gardeners, they do not adapt well to colder environments.

After a rose type has been classified according to the three main groupings, a rose can then be further classified by color, scent, growth habit, ancestry, date of introduction, blooming characteristics and size. It is very difficult for horticulturists to classify every rose, especially the hybrid roses which often seem like a grouping of their own. While there has been much debate on classifying the different types of  roses, the American Rose Society appears to have the most functional system for these stages of classification. Perhaps this is why the American Rose Society’s classification system has been adopted by so many rosarians the world over.

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Hybrid Tea Rose – For Classic Elegance

A modern rose type, the Hybrid Tea Rose is the result of two old timers getting together: the Hybrid Perpetual and the Tea Rose. These gorgeous modern flowers grow on large stems and bloom throughout the year. Although this rose only gives off a faint scent, it makes up for this shortcoming with its many petals and tall stature. The Hybrid Tea Rose is commonly referred to as “your basic rose on a stick.” These roses are the most popular roses to give or receive on special occasions.

A Hybrid Tea will look fabulous in any garden. gardeners should plant them in rows by themselves. It’s much easier to tend to them this way. Be sure to keep this area weed-free. These roses, like most flowers, do not take well to weeds. You should space your flowers approximately twenty-four inches apart from one another. This will ensure a good growth habit. If you’re up for the challenge of growing hybrid tea roses, plant them this spring and start a tradition.

Many gardeners steer clear of the Hybrid Tea Rose because they’re turned off by the idea of thorns. Well, the wonderful thing about this flower is that there are actually several thornless varieties! When you’re shopping for these flowers, look for tags that read ’smooth’ on the label. This, of course, implies that the rose is thorn-free. You can find these flowers in every color, with the exception of blue.

These types of roses require plenty of water during hot weather, especially if the hot weather is accompanied by dryness. Although most gardens require a good soaking every two weeks, other gardens require a weekly soaking. Regardless of the schedule, if the ground looks very dry and cracked, you should water your flowers. Placing mulch around your roses is a very good idea. The mulch will help prevent weeds and conserve moisture.

The Hybrid Tea Rose will most likely reach its full height after approximately three years. Even after pruning, the flower will grow back to this height annually. Most modern roses, such as the hybrid tea, live a span of six or seven years, and longer if the flower has been given exceptional care. It’s important that your roses are given sun. Roses require a minimum of six hours of sun a day. Morning sun is essential to a rose’s proper growth. The morning sun will dry up excess moisture and dew, which will help prevent diseases from developing.

In February, when your flowers are dormant, you’ll want to prune your roses. Your first step will be to remove dead branches and damaged canes. In colder climates, you’ll most likely have to cut all the old damaged wood. Look for lively green canes. Those are the canes that will produce buds in the spring. In warmer areas, remove any existing leaves from the plant, as this will promote new growth. Lastly, remove any debris from your garden. Now you’re ready for spring. As spring approaches and your roses begin to grow, you should fertilize your home garden with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.

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Miniature Roses are under rated!

Whether you’re planting miniature roses indoors or out, they are very easy to grow. Although these little guys have often been frowned upon because they give off little or no fragrance, they’re the perfect accent to any home or garden. Miniature roses are practically maintenance-free. Just give them a “bath” once a week and they’ll last forever.

There’s a common misconception about miniature roses. When people hear the term “miniature,” they assume these roses will make a perfect houseplant. Prior to moving your roses indoors, consider that miniature roses can grow up to four feet in height. This large house plant will undoubtedly need an ample source of light. The micro-mini roses however, only grow to approximately five inches in height and are just as easy to maintain. If you’re still determined to keep your miniature roses indoors, there are several tips that will make caring for your roses a simple task.

Place your plant in direct sunlight. These flowers flourish in the sunniest windows of your home. If the stems of your miniature roses appear to stretch out, leaving wide gaps between the leaves, your rose is not getting enough light. You should either move the plant to a new location or provide supplemental light. Make sure to bathe your plant on a weekly basis. Spraying your plant will reduce the risk of a spider-mite attack. Gently mist the top and underside of the leaves. The spray will remove dust. Make sure that your plant looks comfortable in its pot. If the pot is too small, the plant will be cramped. If the pot is too large, your roses will be reluctant to grow.

Outdoors, most miniature rose types bloom from spring until the winter season. If you cover your plant with mulch, it will have a good chance of surviving frost and the coldest winters. You can plant your roses directly into the ground, a hanging basket, or in an 8 – 10 inch pot. Make sure your plant isn’t shaded by large trees or anything that will cast a shadow. These little plants love direct sunlight.

If you choose to plant your roses directly into the ground, dig a good hole about one foot in depth and width. Take your rose out of its pot and gently untangle any loose roots. Place the roots down into the hole. Take loose soil and refill the hole so that your miniature roses are planted levelly. Water your plant thoroughly. These same rules apply to potting your plant.

Don’t let the soil dry out. The first three weeks are crucial to any plant’s health. Water your new plant every day for three weeks. These types of roses do enjoy their water! However, after the three-week period is over, your goal is to keep your soil moist. Check the soil on a daily basis. If it feels dry, give your plant a little water.

Miniature roses will look great in your living room or along the edges of your flower beds or anywhere your home needs a little burst of color.

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Old Garden Roses Are A Timeless Beauty

Old Garden Roses are any of the rose varieties that were recognized and celebrated prior to 1867, the year in which the first modern flower was introduced. The name of this flower is the hybrid tea. The major classes of Old Garden Roses include: bourbons, noisettes, portlands, species, centifolias, albas, chinas, damasks, hybrid perpetuals, moss roses, gallicas, and teas. Although some of these roses are native to the United States, the majority are from Europe and Asia. The roses that are often referred to as “Old Fashioned,” or “Antique Roses,” have actually served as the predecessors to some of the most beautiful modern hybrids.

Unlike Modern Roses, which are applauded for their vibrant colors, compact buds, and recurrent blooming, ‘Old Fashioned’ Roses are usually pastel in color and are single blooming. Their much-anticipated annual blooms have come to symbolize the arrival of summer.

These flowers are true survivors. Most Old Garden Roses are hardy even in some of the coldest and poorest weather conditions. It’s as if they can withstand anything. Their versatility can rarely be matched by other classes of roses. Despite their durability and strength, these roses flourish best when planted in a favorable situation. The roses require a minimum of six hours in direct sunlight on a daily basis. The ideal location for your Old Garden Roses is an open area, away from shade-producing trees. The soil in this area should be well-drained and fertilized prior to planting.

While many people ignore the fertilization process, soil preparation is a very important element in growing healthy beautiful roses. You should add a large quantity of organic material such as manure to the flower bed prior to planting. The fertilizer will enrich the soil and aid in water drainage. It’s highly recommended that you prepare your garden several months in advance to allow the nutrients to settle. Your Old Garden Roses will prosper in this rich environment.

Once your flower bed is prepared, you’re ready to begin planting your roses. Although it’s a little dirty, it’s a very easy task. Dig a hole about eight inches deep. Remove the plant from its plastic pot. Carefully untangle any loose roots and place the plant directly into the hole. Fill any remaining space with loose soil. You won’t need any soil additives at this time. Just be sure to saturate the ground with water. Your new plant will require water on a daily basis for three weeks. If the ground looks like it’s very dry, give your plant a quick shower.

Although many people don’t like the appearance of mulch, it can truly be a gardener’s best friend. Mulch really helps to repel weeds. It’s also great for holding moisture, which encourages your flowers to bloom radiantly in the summer months. Don’t worry about diseases unless you see strange spots on the foliage. Although Old Garden Roses have been known to be disease resistant, it doesn’t mean they’re 100% disease-free. However, it’s very rare that a disease will debilitate these plants. They’re extremely tough and very self-maintaining.

If you’re looking for something new to plant in your rose garden, select any of the Old Garden Rose types. The blooms and fragrances will please your senses and are the reasons why these roses have withstood the test of time.

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Hummingbirds are the worlds smallest bird making them spectacular to watch because of their brilliant colors and their motionless, hovering, feeding habits. These birds are small, averaging 3.5 inches from head to tail.

The ideal method for feeding hummingbirds is with a nectar feeder placed high up in the branches where no other creatures can reach it. Mix together a combination of sugar and water for a sure-fire way to bring hummingbirds to your feeders. The only way to get closer to flower nectar than this blend is the nectar itself. When you prepare homemade nectar you should not use honey, molasses or any other artificial sweeteners.

A simple recipe for homemade nectar is 1 cup of sugar and 3 cups of water, bring to a boil melting the sugar, set aside to cool. When this mixture is cool you can fill your feeder. This is a 1 to 3 mix. You should not add food coloring to the mix.

Hummingbirds rely on the nectar from flowers and other sources for energy but also eat small insects for protein. You should be able to successfully attract hummingbirds to a backyard feeder with a proper combination of cleanliness, timing, and consistency.

A hummingbird feeder has to be clean and the nectar fresh or the bird will not feed from it and if it does, it may become sick. A hummingbird feeder needs to be brightly colored; red or orange are apparently the ideal hues for luring hummingbirds. For the hummingbirds in the area to see the feeder easier, it would be a good idea to attach a red ribbon.

There are a couple of different types of hummingbird feeders. The dish type has a perch and allows a good view of the way a hummingbird feeds. The gravity fed bottle feeder has no perch so that eliminates the problem of other animals landing on it to feed. Hummingbird feeders come in many different styles and shapes from simple glass or plastic bottles and home made feeder plates to beautifully hand blown glass bulbs that enhance the charm of any backyard.

The best time to hang your hummingbird feeder is shortly before spring. If a hummingbird is drawn to the bird feeder during this time, it will likely return throughout the spring, summer, and well into fall.

You can attract hummingbirds to your garden with feeders and by adding flowering plants to your landscape. A lot of the same plants which lure butterflies to your property will lure hummingbirds as well. By going to your local garden supply shop you will be able to locate feeders and plants to attract the hummingbirds.

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Choosing the right types of roses

There’s an enormous selection of roses that you can grow in your home garden. With such a large selection to choose from, your decision may seem more like a difficult task than the fun that it should be. In order to make this process easier, there are a few important factors that you should consider prior to choosing your roses.

Color

How will the color of your roses effect your garden? Look at different catalogs, as well as your neighbors’ gardens, to get an idea of the colors you like best.

While the color of your roses might not seem very significant, you should consider the colors of other plants and flowers that your roses will share the garden with. Will the assortment of colors look nice, or will they clash?  For some, color-arrangement is a priority; while for others, it’s no big deal.

Size

In addition to color, the size of the roses you choose is very important. Consider the height of your roses at full-growth. If the roses grow fifteen feet in height, will they look unattractive in your garden? Remember, the size of roses vary. While some roses may grow up until eight feet, other can grow up to twenty feet in height.

Measure the area of your garden prior to choosing the roses you want to plant. Compare your width and height measurements with roses you’re looking to purchase. Your roses should have an ample amount of space to grow as well as plenty of exposure to the air. If you only have a small amount of space to dedicate to roses, you may want to consider growing miniature roses. These roses do not take up a lot of space and are easy to plant and care for.

Climate

Although height is an important factor in your rose garden planning, choosing the right roses for your particular climate zone is just as important. In order for your roses to grow healthy and mature, they have to be adjusted to your climate. For example, if you live in an area where it snows six months out of the year, you’ll want to make sure you purchase roses that can withstand cold temperatures.

Maintenance

How much time are you willing to spend maintaining your roses? Do you live to be in the garden, or are you more of a low-maintenance type? There are several types of roses which are very high-maintenance. Although they will look beautiful in your garden, they will require a lot of your time. The classification known as “Modern Roses” are very beautiful, long blooming, and highly fragrant, however these rose types are very high maintenance and are prone to disease.

The rose classification known as “Old Garden Roses”, on the other hand, have been bred to be very disease-resistant and require less maintenance. “Old Garden Roses” blooms for several months at a time, and have a strong and beautiful scent. The bad news is that people with strong allergies to fragrances will have a terrible time around them. If that seems like it will be a problem for you then consider any of the variety known as “shrub roses”. They are also disease-resistant and long blooming, but do not produce as strong a scent.

If you’re new to gardening and want to try your hand at growing roses, landscape roses may be your best option. These roses are easy to care for and disease-resistant. They’ll look stunning just about anywhere. If your garden has trellises, you can add several climbing roses as well. Although climbing roses look very similar to landscape roses, climbing roses have been trained to grow upward like vines. This type of rose is a beautiful touch to any home.

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The Beauty Of Dianthus

If you’ve ever seen pinks (dianthus) spreading its charming gray green leaf tones and giddy little fringed and fragrant flowers through the Cape Cod cemeteries and along the roadside, you’ll know you must have them on your own home property. What a variety of dianthus are yours for the growing.

White, pink and mauve flowers with fringed and tangled petals —fragrant always. These long-lasting lovely little harbingers of early summer are utterly irresistible.

Consider the area where you’d like to naturalize dianthus. They need full sun, will hold their own in field grass if given a good start. They like light sandy soil but will thrive in poor soil if it is on the sandy side, not clay. When you have selected a possible area for your project, buy a few plants and set them out and see what they do the next year. This we did in a part of our meadow where the black-eyed susans and daisies grow. The few plants thrived so we started our project.

To naturalize dianthus in a field, dig a good spot for each plant, removing all grass roots and clearing a space around each planting site. The dianthus will take over if you give them a very good start. Keep grass from growing over them the first year or two. Water them during droughts the first year. After that the dianthus comes up along with the field grass and merges with it. The dianthus area may be mowed, along with the rest of the field, but not too close to the ground. Once a year is enough, preferably in late August or September, by which time the plants have had a chance to reseed.

Year after year dianthus will grow and multiply, sending their fragrance far and wide. Ours grow in our field within fragrance range of our sleeping porch. We are naturalizing many things within range of this porch, for we like to sleep on summer nights with nature’s scents about us—along with the sound of the whip-poor-wills.

Sometimes hollyhocks can be established in the wild and sometimes not. If you have a sunny rich soil, perhaps near a pile of manure or compost, they are worth trying. Once I saw masses emerging from the edge of a dump in Vermont. If hollyhocks do take hold, they will return year after year, cross-fertilizing to bring a variety of colors and shades.

One huge day-lily, a nameless but beautiful golden yellow variety, flowers along a wall in semishade. It gets no attention from one year to another—yet through each July it is a sensation of lovely yellow trumpets. Nearly thirty flowers come at once on our plant. We can see it from the living room windows, but it is worth frequent trips outside for closer examination.

Tradescantia (spiderwort) is a plant that will grow and hold its own in tall grass and untrimmed areas. It sends up charming flowers—blue, pink, violet. The white with a blue center is the subtlest and loveliest of all. The first blooms open in June, then the plant rests in mid-summer. It flowers again in the early fall, persisting until frost.

Have you ever seen yucca, towering 12 feet high on the Santa Maria coast ranges in California? It is sometimes called Adam’s needle, and might better be named Adam’s Candle, for it rises like a great white torch—high on the steepest slopes. Yucca doesn’t grow as tall in the east—maybe only 6 or 8 feet. But even then its striking form and fearsome foliage, with thread-like raffles on the ends of stiff leaves, make it a fine contrast to our lush feathery mid-summer plant shapes. Plant yuccas in a dry sunny spot and forget them.

Johnny-jump-ups are charming little flowers that will grow, among other places, in the gravel of your drive. Once you get them started on your place there is just no telling where they will turn up. They grow like grass through our vegetable garden and we let them, removing them only to plant other more important things. The little plants shade the ground, keep it cool and serve as a wonderful ground cover. Remember, though, they face to the south, so grow them where you can

walk along to the south side of them so you can look directly into their appealing little faces. They will grow anywhere in full sun or semishade—just start them off and let them go.

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All About Floribunda Roses

The name ‘Floribunda’ is of Latin origin and means “many flowered” or “abundance of flowers” and this variety of rose certainly lives up to its name. These roses have been described as some of the most colorful of the modern rose types. Typically, their flowers are arranged in low-growing large clusters. The Floribunda rose is the result of crossbreeding a Hybrid Tea and a Polyantha in the 1920’s. The Floribunda is considered by many to be a better breed than the Hybrid Tea because of its capacity to produce many blooms over an extended period of time. Many people grow them for display rather than to use as cutting-flowers. They’re a beautiful landscape plant that can produce an abundance of color season after season.

Floribunda rose types, much like their ancestors, come in a large assortment of colors and styles. The difference is, however, that these flowers are much more vigorous and hardy than Hybrid Tea roses. Generally, Floribunda plants can grow up to four feet tall. A notable plant of similar size that has become increasingly popular over the last few years is the Rob Roy. Its roses, which offer a sweet soft scent, bloom in a deep red color. The flowers will bloom continually from spring until late fall provided there aren’t any severe frosts. They’re extremely bold in mass planting.

Prior to planting your roses, you should pick a garden location and get your soil prepared. Add a nice compost of manure or other organic matter to your soil. It’s worth mentioning that active blooming roses flourish in a few inches of organic mulch. It’s also suggested that you plant your flowers 18 – 24 inches apart from one another. You want to provide ample space for them to grow.

Dig a hole that will be deep enough for roots to spread without any restriction; about 8 – 10 inches deep is fine. If you wish, you can add bone-meal to the soil, as it is high in phosphates. Now you’re ready to plant. Remove your plant from its plastic container and gently place it into the ground. Backfill the hole with loose soil and then pack any loose soil firmly with your palm. Repeat this process for every plant. When you’re finished, water your new plants thoroughly. For the first couple of weeks, you should water your new roses on a daily basis. After that, a weekly irrigation should be sufficient.

Basic pruning should be done in late winter months. Most gardeners choose January or February, depending on their climate. Remove all debris and dead foliage from the plants and their flower bed surroundings. Snip any dead bark-like canes. Old flowers must be removed in order to promote new growth for the coming season.

Although you should try to maintain some shape to your roses, be gentle with the cuts. It’s been noted by many horticulturists that Floribundas under one year of age flourish with a cane length of 6 inches. If it’s warm enough you’ll want to fertilize the ground during this time. Add organic matter to your soil and watch your flowers bloom beautifully in the months to come.

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The Beautiful Benefits Of A Small Lawn

Although we enjoy tremendously our big meadow-lawn, we also get a great deal of satisfaction from the 12 to 15-foot swath of regular mowed lawn around the house. We have developed some easy procedures for its maintenance. All are in the let’s-keep-it-simple vein.

We cut this strip of lawn each week. We feed it with a 5-10-5 chemical fertilizer in early April, an organic one in mid-summer and again in early September, and that’s it. Our lawn is more “grass” than lawn in the orthodox sense. We have a democratic assortment of grasses in it and a lot of clover. It’s heartening to see the clover in the quick, lush summer periods unfold its myriad furry white flowers, spread its seed, and grow thicker. Some say clover stains clothes and is slippery. But we love the flowers, and sometimes when we most need it we find a four-leaf clover!

Though our lawn is heterogeneous, it pleases us and feels fine to walk on, particularly bare-footed in the morning dew. This is supposed to do something special for you, I forget now just what, but something significant.

Permanently Improve Your Soil

The surest way to success with lawns, as with all parts of the gardening, is to work toward building up the quality of the soil. The slow-acting organic fertilizers do this. Applied midsummer and fall they gradually improve the earth. Among the best are dried ground fish meal, bone meal, pulverized sheep manure and shredded cattle manure, and wood ashes from the fireplace. But in the spring, especially in a new lawn, a quick-acting chemical mixture encourages rapid growth before crab-grass stirs to action. There is another advantage in using chemical fertilizers in the spring. The bacterial action needed to release food elements in an organic fertilizer does not occur until the soil temperature rises above 60 degrees.

Much spring grass growth occurs when the mercury is well below this. The elements in chemical foods are immediately available and promote a quick and welcome early growth. The lawn fertilizer compounds containing urea-form nitrogen are excellent and time-saving too.

The principal of developing a good lawn is to encourage grass growth when weeds are weakest. This means feeding twice a year: in early spring before the perennial weeds really get under way, and in early September when crabgrass and annual weeds have spent their vitality and there are still two months of good-grass growing weather before frost.

Don`t Worry About Weeds

How much weeding you do depends upon your temperament. We make good use of one of the long hollow tubes (Killer Kane is one of the trade names) that contain a liquid weed killer for spot treatment of dandelions and other broad-leaved weeds. Beyond that we do nothing. But if you do pull or spray crabgrass, do it early before it goes to seed. (The seeds can lie dormant in the soil and sprout many years later). So eliminate the crabgrass when young, level the spot and reseed with a good grass immediately. Keep the soil moist until seedlings become established.

Never weed unless it’s really fun. My mother used to love it. In her seventies she’d settle for the afternoon on a cushion beneath a large hat with gloves and a basket. This, she always said, was her golf. Our “golf” is a host of other activities—flying kites, swimming, exploring woods. Well—you should take your golf where you find it, and if it is weeding lawns, more power to you. It really does improve them.

Rolling & Cutting

It does seem rather ridiculous the way we feed our lawns so they will grow, and as soon as they grow we cut—and complain about the need for frequent cutting. But then, a lot of things we humans do seem sort of silly and we keep right on doing them. Actually a vigorously growing lawn is best able to resist diseases and weed invasions.

Small lawns are fine. If you possibly can do so, keep yours small enough so you can enjoy it, with mowing quickly done and never a chore. A strip of green lawn makes a pleasant setting for a home. Looking from the inside out, we find it quiet and inviting. Perhaps a robin on the green is in a tug of war with a large and resisting worm. Or maybe a rabbit darts across. Considered from a distance, a house rising from a frame of lawn looks attractive and the fragrance of newly-cut grass is an additional joy. A lawn is indeed important but, for us, acceptable only if it is a small one. Let the rest be meadow!

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Popular flower bulbs

Bulbs are among the most attractive, and easiest to care for, flowers in the garden. A bulb garden in full bloom can be a wonderful, attractive sight for any gardener.

Another great thing about bulbs is the sheer variety in which they come. There are bulb plants to satisfy virtually any taste, and bulb plants come in a staggering variety of colors, sizes, shapes and textures.

Even within bulb families, there is quite a bit of variety. The humble tulip, for instance, boasts a variety of different shaped blooms, from the traditional bell shaped to a number of more exotic varieties. With all these varieties to choose from, finding just the right bulbs for your garden can be difficult. We are, therefore, providing this guide to popular bulb flowers, including their optimum growing conditions.

Crocus

Bulb Type: Corm

Sunlight: Full sun or partial shade

Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Dahlia

Bulb Type: Tuberous Root

Sunlight: Full sun; partial shade in hot climates

Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Galanthus (Snowdrop)

Bulb Type: True Bulb

Sunlight: Full sun or partial shade

Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Gladiolus

Bulb Type: Corm

Sunlight: Full sun

Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Hererocallis (Daylily)

Bulb Type: Tuberous Root

Sunlight: Full sun or light shade

Water: Regular watering during growing season

Hyacinthus (Dutch Hyacinth)

Bulb Type: True Bulb

Sunlight: Full sun

Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Iris

Bulb Type: Rhizome

Sunlight: Full sun or light shade

Water: Regular watering during growing season

Lilium (Asiatic and Oriental Hybrid Lilies)

Bulb Type: True Bulb

Sunlight: Full sun or partial shade

Water: Regular watering is required. The root zone must never be allowed to dry out.

Muscari (Grape Hyacinth)

Bulb Type: True Bulb

Sunlight: Full sun or light shade

Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Narcissus (Daffodil, Narcissus)

Bulb Type: True Bulb

Sunlight: Full sun

Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

Tulipa (Tulip)

Bulb Type: True Bulb

Sunlight: Full sun

Water: Regular watering during growth and bloom periods

No matter what types of bulb flowers you choose to plant, if you follow the instructions carefully and give them the growing conditions they need to thrive, you will be rewarded with many seasons of beautiful blooms from these spectacular plants. A garden wouldn’t really be a garden without the use of flower bulbs, not to mention that gardening itself would not be as pleasurable.

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The Most Common Types Of Rose Diseases

There’s nothing worse than seeing all of your hard work destroyed by a rose disease or fungus. Roses can be weakened during the winter dormancy and become more susceptible to disease when the growing season begins.

Even if the bush survived winter unscathed, spring rains and summer’s heat and humidity can open the door to a variety of fungus infections.

Here is a summary of the most common diseases which could pose a threat to your roses.

Powdery Mildew

This is a fungus disease that produces a white powder along the tops and bottoms of the leaves and along the stems. Left untreated the plant will not grow to its full potential and the leaves will die and drop off.

Rust

Rust looks like an orange powder which appears on the underside of leaves and will spread to other parts of the plant.

Blackspot

Hybrid tea type roses are blackspot resistant, but many other varieties are susceptible.  The disease appears as circular black spots on the plant’s leaves which range between 1/16 to 1/2 inch in diameter. Left untreated, blackspot will destroy your plant’s foliage.

Rose Mosaic

Unlike most rose diseases, which are fungal in nature, Rose Mosaic is caused by a virus. Symptoms generally resemble discolored mosaic patterns and yellow and green.

The only treatment is to remove the infected plant from the garden. Make sure that you also remove all leaves and clippings which fall from the affected plant.

If you are unable to stop the spread of fungus-based diseases by simply cutting back the affected areas, see you garden supply professional and ask about commercial fungus treatment products.

You can reduce the chances of your roses being affected by fungus if you follow these tips:

Always water the soil around the rose plant and never water the plant itself.

Clean your rose beds regularly and remove all clippings and fallen leaves.

Cut any diseased canes or blooms and dispose of them in your trash can.

Practice regular pruning and pay special attention to pruning out the center of the bushes to allow air to circulate.

Seal all cuts. Elmer’s Glue works fine. It’s safe, effective and inexpensive.

Feed your roses regularly. Wee-fed roses are better able to resist infection.

Choose disease-resistant rose types whenever possible, especially if you live in areas with high heat and humidity. Remember that disease-resistant does not mean disease-free. It simply means that there is a less likely chance of the plant becoming infected if you follow all of the tips that you read here.

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Let Your Perennials Grow Wild

There are two ways to have colorful plantings and still hold the line on upkeep. In addition to bringing flowers from woods and meadows to your garden, you can let some of your garden flowers run wild.

Many perennials that grow in dignity in a well-ordered, well-weeded border will, if permitted, contribute the same color, fragrance, and beauty to another area. Suppose you let them run loose in your own tiny or large meadow or woodsy area.

Wherever you set them to naturalize, bee balm, spiderwort and dianthus become as independent as the native flower, needing no watering, weeding or feeding. This is an ideal way to simplify gardening at no sacrifice of beauty in the ground or indoors in cut flower arrangements. After all, most if not all of our garden flowers were once wild; the domesticated state in which we are accustomed to seeing them isn’t their natural one.

I was first inspired to experiment with this idea one day towards the end of summer when I found iris and corn trying to occupy exactly the same spot in our vegetable garden. I uprooted the iris, but it looked so good I simply could not throw it away. Neighbors took some but there were still plenty of clumps left. I took them down the South Meadow to a spot where it is sunny all day and slightly boggy. With no heart for digging in the tough grass, and also in the spirit of experimentation, I merely dumped the plants, though I did take the trouble to set them right side up. Picking up some loose hay that lay nearby (the meadow had had its annual cut a few weeks before) I tossed it over the rhizomes and promptly forgot them. Yes, you’ve guessed it. The next year, up came the iris, all blooming like mad. They’re still going strong.

Of course, I don’t recommend such casual treatment. But, actually many perennials can be handled in ways not much more complicated than that. Thus you can transfer to the uncultivated areas of your outdoors a great number of flowering plants with small effort and rich rewards.

My mother’s favorite flower was lily-of-the-valley. I always wanted some but hesitated because of the need for clearing an area, digging a bed, keeping it tended, etc. There is no place for such a bed in our wild meadows. But one day when walking in the neighboring woods we came upon remnants of a long-since vanished house—only a stone section from the cellar wall remained standing. And the whole area in and around this was one mass of lily-of-the-valley, so solid and dense that no weed could struggle up in its midst. If lily-of-the-valley would do that here, why not for us? With permission, I dug up some of the plants and settled them under the trees along our old stone wall. There they now thrive with no care, producing masses of flowers each season. The first year or so I kept the weeds out—and now in December if I feel benevolent I give the plants a few tosses of manure. (Since they grow next to the manure pile, this is simple.)

Bee balm offered another pleasant experience in carefree gardening. Down in a semi-shaded area along the stream where the ground is not boggy but never gets really bone dry either, there was a tangle of jewel weed and miscellaneous grasses. I planted a red-flowered variety of bee balm in the midst of the tangle. All I did first was to sickle the area. This time I did not set the plants on top of the earth but in it, though I did not worry about surrounding weeds. In three years they have grown and multiplied amazingly. We have the fun each year of watching the humming birds come to this plant for their summer dinners, and from the terrace we often look down and see several ruby throats hovering among the scarlet blossoms.

In our meadow I set out a half-dozen plants of sun-loving coreopsis. I had seen them running riot over New England meadows, so I had no qualms. Ours have exceeded all expectations, spreading over three times their original area. All summer we can, at will, cut a golden bouquet for the house.

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Rose Gardening and the climate zones

If you want to be the proud owner of a bountiful garden this year, the first thing you need to find out is which climate zone you live in. It’s helpful to know that your town gets a lot of sunshine throughout the year, but that’s not enough. It’s actually the cold temperatures that make a difference in what you can and cannot grow in your area.

Know Your Zone

Anyone who knows anything about gardening will tell you that the most reliable source of this type of climate information is the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Consisting of 11 different climate zones covering all 50 states, Canada and Mexico, this map will help you determine what you can plant in your garden.

When you purchase plants, they’ll come with a set of growing instructions that’ll describe the growing conditions the plants need to thrive. It doesn’t matter whether you plan to plant vegetables, flowers or plants to use as landscaping. Don’t purchase anything until you’ve checked the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map and confirmed your climate zone.

The map is quite large and very colorful. Its creation was a joint collaboration of the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and the Arnold Arboretum (of Harvard University). The map is a compilation of years of weather data that tracked the average low (coldest) temperatures in various regions throughout the United States. Each of the different colors represents a different climate zone with Zone 1 being the region with the lowest (coldest) temperature. There, temperatures climb as low as -50 F (-45 C). At the opposite end of the zone chart is Zone 11, where the lowest temperature any time of year is always above 40 F (4 C).

The boundaries between the different climate zones for the most part lie as you would expect, with the colder zones covering the northernmost parts of North America and gradually warming the further south you go. Slight variations can be seen at points of higher elevation, again, as would be expected.

It’s easy to figure out your area’s climate zone. If you’re online, locate a website with the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map and then click where you live (get as close as you can). The map will zoom in on your region and inform you of the corresponding zone. Then you’ll know!

Why the Map is Important to Rose Gardening

Roses really aren’t as difficult to grow as most people think. They do require regular care and maintenance, but the number one thing roses need is an appropriate climate in which to grow. There are many varieties of roses and some are hardier than others, making them better able to handle colder climate zones provided they’ve been given the proper seasonal preparations. If you live in a colder hardiness zone (a lower-numbered zone) you’d want to look for roses that are bred for that zone, otherwise, you might find that those same rose types that looked so perfect in the nursery don’t look so healthy in your garden!

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Basic Rose Gardening Tools

Like any job you tackle, the work is always much easier if you arm yourself with the right tools. Before heading out to your rose garden, make sure you bring along these basic rose gardening tools.

Pruners

A good pruner is one tool that you will use almost daily. There are two types of pruners on the market. One is called an “anvil” pruner, and the other is called a “bypass” pruner. An anvil pruner has blades that meet on top of each other. Bypass pruners have blades that pass each other like scissors do. Always use bypass pruners so you don’t crush your canes and stems.

Loppers

When your rose garden starts to mature there will come times when this will be an indispensable tool for cutting back old, thick canes that are too much for a set of pruning shears. If you are just starting your rose garden, save your money as you won’t need this for a few years.

Long-Handled Shovel

Choose a lightweight model with a strong handle. Shovels with fiberglass throats are good choices. Spend a few extra dollars and get one with a padded handle as it will save you lots of blisters as the years go by.

Wheelbarrow

Avoid the temptation to buy the cute garden “carts.” You are going to need a real wheelbarrow. As your gardening addiction, I mean hobby, takes off there will be no end to the things you will be hauling in and out of your garden. Some of those things will be very heavy and you’ll be glad that you have a real wheelbarrow to help you.

Gloves

“You can complain because a rose has thorns, or you can rejoice because thorns have a rose.” – Tom Wilson

The rose garden is no place for thin, whimpy gloves. Unless you enjoy feeling the thorns pierce your skin, opt for leather work gloves with those big, fold-down cuffs.

Kneeling Pads

Some people prefer the big 8″x15″ water-resistant pads with handles, while others prefer strap-on knee pads. The kneepads are more convenient because they move when you move, but the one-size-fits-all knee cups may not work for you. In that case, the pad will suit you fine.

Short Garden Digging Fork

This tool is indispensable for turning and loosening soil in small patches. Choose a good quality model with steel forks and a sturdy handle.

Watering Wand

Great for watering potted roses and for giving your other roses a good root soaking. Choose a model with a quick shutoff valve on the wand itself, and a quick release fitting for the end that plugs into the hose. Spend the money to get a model with brass fittings instead of plastic. It will last years longer.

Garden Rake

These are the rakes with the sharp steel teeth that you use for leveling and smoothing beds. Choose one with a sturdy handle and steel tines.

Leaf Rake

You’ll use this tool a lot for cleaning up clippings, leaves and other garden debris. You may want to buy both a “regular” size rake, and one of the smaller “child size” rakes for pulling debris from tight quarters.

You shouldn’t have any trouble locating a source to purchase these basic rose gardening tools. Your local garden supply store likely will stock these tools, or if you don’t mind purchasing gently-used items, check out area yard sales for your gardening supplies. Have fun!

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