Lacecap (Hydrangea macrophylla normalis) should be much more widely grown. They are treated exactly the same as mopheads. In some ways the lacecap is easier than the mophead to place in the landscape because it is looser, more graceful and more subtle in its effect.
There is no doubt that mature lacecaps can be magnificent. They fit quite naturally into woodland locations, snuggling under and around trees such as dogwoods and other shrubs. I have also seen spectacular single specimens light up a front yard.
Mopheads(Hydrangea macrophylla) are the most popular hydrangeas grown in home gardens and landscapes. Most mopheads grown today are blue or pink. A few varieties are white.
Any of the hydrangeas below (except the white ones) can be either blue or pink, depending on the soil compositio
Mopheads(Hydrangea macrophylla) are the most popular hydrangeas grown in home gardens and landscapes. Most mopheads grown today are blue or pink. A few varieties are white.
Any of the hydrangeas below (except the white ones) can be either blue or pink, depending on the soil composition.
LIMITATIONS TO HYDRANGEA COLOR CHANGE
1. WHITE HYDRANGEAS can NOT be changed to pink or blue by the grower. .
2. If you live in a hot clime, it is improbable you will ever see a “true red” hydrangea. No matter how convincing those pictures in the catalogs are or how much lime is added to the soil, one can only achieve a very deep or dark pink, but not a true red, I’d love to hear from you if you have a another(a) experience).
3. One can seldom change the saturation of a color (how strong or pale the color is). The intensity develops for a number of reasons: the heredity of a particular hydrangea variety, weather conditions (hot or cold, humid or dry), health of the plant, and possibly other natural factors. Fertilizing hydrangeas once or twice a year may result in a little more concentrated color simply because the health of the plant may be improved.
4. A few varieties of hydrangeas tend more toward the pink or the blue range of colors, but will not retain even this color if soil conditions are not right.
CHANGE TO PINK
For hydrangea blooms to be pink, the plants must not take up aluminum from the soil. If the soil naturally contains aluminum, one must try to keep it away from the hydrangea’s system. Following are a few tricks that might work:
* Add dolomitic lime several times a year. This will help to raise the pH. Shoot for a pH of more or less 6.0 to 6.2 (If it goes above 6.4 hydrangeas may experience an iron deficiency). Since hydrangeas take up aluminum best at lower pH levels, raising the pH will help to keep the bluing effect of aluminum out of the hydrangea’s system.
* Use a fertilizer with high levels of phosphorus. Phosphorus helps to prevent aluminum from creeping or seeping into the system of the hydrangea. opt a fertilizer close to the ratio of 25/10/10 (Phosphorus is the middle number).
* In areas that naturally produce blue hydrangeas (soils with aluminum), consider growing pink hydrangeas in large pots.If you’re after a more natural look you can always bury the pot in the ground. If hydrangeas are grown in pots, it would be best to use soil-less mixtures, since these mixes would probably not have aluminum in them. In a pot, it will be much easier to control the requirements for growing pink hydrangeas.
CHANGE TO BLUE
To start a blue hydrangea, aluminum must be present in the soil. To see? that aluminum is present, aluminum sulfate may be added to the soil around the hydrangeas.
It is recommend that a solution of 1/2 oz (1 Tbsp) aluminum sulfate per gallon of water be applied to plants (which are at least 2-3 years old) throughout the growing season. IMPORTANT: Water plants well in advance of application and put solution on cautiously, as too much can burn the roots.
In order for the aluminum to be made available to the plant, the pH of the soil should be low (5.2-5.5). Adding aluminum sulfate will tend to lower the pH of the soil. Another method for lowering the pH is to add organic matter to the soil such as coffee grounds, fruit and vegetable peels, grass clippings etc. Use from your composting barrell if you have one.
If the soil naturally contains aluminum and is acid (low pH) the color of the hydrangea will automatically tend toward shades of blue and/or purple.
The choice of fertilizer will also affect the color change. A fertilizer low in phosphorus and high in potassium is helpful in producing a good blue color(25/5/30 is good. Potassium is the last number). Superphosphates and bone meal should be avoided when trying to produce blue.
After having said this, I hasten to add that it is close to impossible to turn a hydrangea blue for any length of time if it is planted in soil with no aluminum and that is highly alkaline (chalky). One would have to be very diligent in keeping the soil properly conditioned as declared above.
Perhaps the best idea for growing blue hydrangeas in an area with alkaline soil would be to grow them in very large pots using lots of compost to bring the pH down. The above suggestions for bluing would also work for a potted plant. Reduce the strength of the Aluminum sulfate to 1/4 oz per gallon of water. In a pot, it will be much easier to control the requirements for bluing. Again, for a more natural look you can always bury the pot.
One last suggestions for those who are serious about this procedure. It is important to have your water tested so that it will not “contaminate” the soil that you have so rigorously balanced. The pH of the water should not be higher than 5.6. Another good idea that is a little more costly is to use distilled water.
Planting hydrangeas near a concrete foundation or sidewalk will often affect the color since the pH of the soil may be raised considerably by lime leaching out of these structures, making it difficult to obtain blue.
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